Monday, February 4, 2008

Har Ki Doon Trek

Year: 2005
My first trek's inspiration led me to take part in Har Ki Doon trek conducted by the same YHAI in The Himalayas.
For this trek I decided to report on 29th May,2005 at reporting camp Mussoorie. I boarded Chennai-Dehradun Express on 27th May. Reached Deharadun on 29th and directly went to Youth Hostel Mussoorie to report. It was on Deharadun-Mussoorie road 6 km short of Mussoorie. Some participants from Gujarat were already reported and they greeted me in the dormitory.All of us went to Mussoorie to have a look.We roamed in Mall Road for some purchases.All others went back to YH. I had my lunch and went to Gun Hill on a cable car (rope way). View of Himalayas from Gun Hill was simply superb.
In the evening we gathered in front of YH building. This building was a nice construction surrounded by hills and looked majestically from Mall Road also. Swamy from Karnataka was the Co-Director of this trek. He addressed us. He made some points about this trek. In that briefing he told that in National treks there was a dress code. He pointed me and a guy from Mumbai and told "don't wear cloths like that". I was in shorts and that one was in a sleeveless tee. "Being this area an international tourist center you can wear such clothes. But in treks, all age groups, both the genders will be participating", he remarked. Thenceforth we followed suit. Every group was designated with a name, ours was HD 29.
Day 1
Next morning, the 30th May, we had our group photo and boarded a bus to go to base camp Sankri which was 175 km away. I still wasn't having a digi cam. After a nice start,on our way, we were stopped at Kempty Falls. These falls attract a large number of tourists who visit Mussoorie. After photo session we continued our journey. We were heading toward Yamunotri and traveling along River Yamuna. Journey was very pleasant, but road was very narrow. We continued like that up to Naugoan. Here we deviated from Yamunotri road, crossed Yamuna to reach Purola. This was our lunch point. That was the last place where we found a PCO and also mobile connectivity. After Purola the travel was slightly up hill. After some time we were traveling beside a river. It was River Tons. We stopped at Naitwar for tea. Here River Supin and River Rupin combine to make River Tons. Tons confluences with River Yamuna at another place.
We soon reached check post of Govind wildlife sanctuary. After some formalities we moved. Our entire trek goes on in this sanctuary. Before reaching base camp in the evening we saw a snow capped mountain at a distance. That was my first glance of real snow. Not only myself, there were so many first timers. Base camp was beautiful with colourful tents, 3 flags and also with so many trekkers. One was our National flag, another one was YHAI flag. Among us no one knew what the third one was. The camp site was terraced. At the entrance there was an office tent. From the entrance to tier3 there was a path.The path was separating the premises into 2 sections. In tier1 there was kitchen and dining area on one side of the path and toilets on other side. Tier2 was for excess baggage keeping tent and trek officials tent. All the trekker's tents were in tier3. Gents tents were on one side and ladies tents on other side. Except toilets everything was makeshift. We were scheduled to be in the base camp for 2 nights for acclimatisation and rappelling purposes.
After our evening tea we went out to have a look at village Sankri. There was no electricity, no telephone. While we were walking we saw River Supin flowing between two mountains. Like all hilly areas here also there was a stream between two mountains. They are here called Gads. Some of these Gads combine to form a river. Usually Gads have the name of the place where they were born. Camp fire was followed by dinner. After camp fire chocolate flavoured milk was served. Here at base camp there was a generator to keep bulbs glowing.
Day 2
We woke up by a call for tea at 5'o clock. At 6 went out for a simple exercise. For every batch there will be a leader, a deputy leader and also an environment leader. We chose Sharma from Delhi as our leader. Pratik Dagli from Gujarat was the deputy leader. Nilesh Patil from Maharashtra was our Environment leader. At 8 we went out for rappelling after breakfast. HD 28 members were moving upper camps. Before proceeding for rappelling, we formed in a line on the road to bid them farewell with claps. At 12 we came back. After lunch there was an orientation class. In-charge Field Director Mr.M.K.Goyal addressed us for nearly 2 hours on what to do and what not to do. Next we deposited our excess luggage, so that we were having only our rucksacks with us. Goyal examined weight of every rucksack by lifting it. If he felt it weighed more, he spelled jaada. So there was a need to shed some luggage from that rucksack. If the sack is weighed more, the trekker easily gets exhausted and wont be able to keep pace with others. The other officials were taking care in clearing some weight from those jaada sacks.
In the evening we went Sankri for a stroll. This time HD 30 members were also there. They just landed at the base camp from Mussoorie. Some locals were playing cricket in the village center opposite GMVN bungalow. We happily joined. Before 6.30 we were at base camp. Dinner followed. It was camp fire time after dinner. At that moment it began raining. Usually camp fire takes place in the dining shed. Because of shower it became wet and still it was raining. So camp fire was shifted to camp leader's tent. Compared to dining shed it was small, just 1/3rd.
Usually every time there will be 3 batches at the base camp. The batch that completed the trek, the batch that came yesterday(we), the batch that came today(HD30). All these three batches joined at camp fire. Initially it looked boring. After all have gathered the enjoyment took momentum. Vaibhav Karandhikar from Mumbai played a great role in making this camp fire a memorable one. With his Hindi and Marathi songs he shook all. He was really good in singing Marathi folk songs. When it clocked 10 we didn't know. 10 was the generator turning off time. This was the most memorable camp fire in the entire trek.
Day 3
At 5 tea.At 8 we were ready to leave after breakfast and with packed lunch for high camps. We started. YH officials were waving hands from dining area. We approached the road. HD 30 people were lined up there, clapping hands rhythmically. We walked past them with grace. Some of them shook our hands. We were heading to Juda Talao, which was 4 km away. Our guide for the day was nick named Sharukh. At the point of deviation where we were about to step on the mountain, leaving the road, there was a guy selling cut wood hand sticks. Sharukh told us that was the last place where we can find them and also suggested these sticks come in handy in downhill maneuvers. Almost all have purchased them for Rs 10.
Sharukh was good at Bansuri. He really played it well. Before lunch point we stopped 3 times. At first stop Sharukh told about trees in that forest. Our second stop was at a pipe line crossing the path. YHAI laid a pipe line from a stream to supply water to the base camp. After lunch point we didn't stop. We spent more than one and half hours at lunch point. Distance to be covered was only 4 km,but the ascend was more than 2000 feet for the day. We walked leisurely but steadily. After reaching camp we had a welcome drink. It was made of Rhododendron flowers. It tasted nice.
The camp site looked beautiful. A grass land, size of a foot ball ground, surrounded by tall coniferous trees. A snow capped mountain was seen at a distance. The ground was elevated on one side and other side there was a pond. Multi coloured tents were pitched on the elevated side. A great location, so serene, so pristine, so calm. I didn't even imagine that I was going to spend a night in an area like that.
Sometime later chai and snacks were served. Dinner was at 6.30 in the evening.Usually in YHAI Himalayan treks dinner will be at this time only. There will be light up to 7.45 in the evening. Then only we need to put on a torch if we venture out. Here also there was camp fire. After camp fire we came out of the camp fire tent to go to our tents. Then the magic began. It was chill out side. The sky was filled with innumerable stars. I didn't even know, that much amount of stars were existing in the skies. Surroundings were star lit and attained some more beauty. All these things mesmerised us. Some people began dancing with joy. Immediately all have joined them.
Day 4
Upon our awakening in the morning another time magical moments were awaiting for us. This time Sun rays made magic. The entire area where sun rays were fallen,turned into golden yellow. Entire camp site was in full glow now. Two multi coloured horses were grazing beside the pond. All these things made us dumb. Our batch leader started meditation. Mean while Nilesh Patil, our envi leader, went up to one of the horses and gave a pat. Immediately it stretched its leg to kick him. He missed it very narrowly. He always did things like that. A naughty fellow!
Time has come to leave the camp site. In this camp we enjoyed every moment. We headed for Kedar Kantha at 8. A path was leading beside the pond. We took that. We walked leisurely. At 11 we were at tea point. Usually in trekking season local goat herders open a makeshift tea shop for a living. Here they offer maggi noodles, omelette and tea.
Tea point was a big sloppy area. On one side we saw Kedar Kantha summit at a distance and on another side there were snow capped Garhwal range of Himalayas. It was all a huge grass land with herds of white goats grazing. I enjoyed sitting there, sipping hot chai in cold atmosphere with lovely surroundings.
We had welcome drink in Kedar Kantha camp in the evening. This camp site was also a fine one. Camp site was at the foot of Kedar Kantha peak. In front of the camp there was a huge grass land. A canyon was there at the end of the grass land. At far of a distance from canyon there were snow capped mountains. We were in Uttarakhand state. Our guide showed at some peaks at far and told they fall in Himachal Pradesh state. Borasu Pass connects Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh. The route is Sankri-Har Ki Doon-Borasu Pass-Chitkul.
We played cricket for some time. I hit a boundary while batting and had a wicket too when I bowled. In the evening we saw a great sun set. We were lucky, there were no clouds. We saw disappearance of the Sun below the horizon over the snow capped mountains. There was no camp fire today.
Day 5
This was summit day. We were going to climb our highest point of this trek, Kedar Kantha summit, at 12000 feet above MSL. Since we camped right at the foot of the mountain, we started climbing it after our start to camp Dundha. This mountain looks like throat of Lord Shiva so it is being called Kedar Kantha. Initially it was not steep. That was phase 1. Phase 2 was a little bit steep. At the end of phase 2,there was some snow. I touched it to feel it for the first time. Phase 3 was the steepest part of this trek. At the end of this phase there was a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Some offered prayers. There was an idol of Lord Ganesha outside. It was found nearby this place by some villagers. The temple was 50 feet behind the summit. Tea point for this day was on the summit. We took a long rest here. From the summit we could see the beauty of Himalayas.
From the summit walk was exciting. We walked on a knife edge ridge for some time. Path was very much narrow here, with sloping sides. Only one can walk at a time. A very steep descend followed after this walk. After descending it was lunch time.
We took a good break and started toward Dundha. After walking 1 hour we came to see the vinyl board welcoming us to camp Dundha. Everyone was at ease, thinking as if reached the camp. But the real drama was, YHAI people placed the board one and half hours before the camp, with an uphill task. At last reached camp Dundha. Sameer from Mumbai and myself stopped before the camp for chit chat and we reached the camp 15 minutes after the last soul entered. Till then camp leader P.S.Chouhan from Lucknow was waiting for us at the entrance of the camp. He welcomed every one of us warmly. Instantly we assumed Chouhan as a good person. Because no camp leader did like this before, and in the entire trek also.
Camp Dundha was at an ideal place. It was on the edge of a hill, with patches of snow at the front. At the back there was a valley with woods. One side the trail coming from Kedar Kantha and another side the trail going to Talhouti. After refreshments camp leader asked us to gather in a tent. During introductions, another time he proved his knowledge and memory about YHAI conducted treks. First our leader Sharma introduced himself to Chouhan. Chouhan asked about his past treks. Sharma did nearly 20 treks with YHAI. Whenever Sharma told about a trek, Chouhan was telling the names of Field director and Co-director of that trek. Even Sharma didn't know those details. But one thing made us laugh. Once Sharmaji did Mussoorie winter trek. As usual Chouhan told all the details. As usual Sharmaji told yaad nahee. Then Chouhan told, "you are Mr.Sharma from Delhi along with another man came with so many children and I was camp leader'', and told the name of the place. Immediately all were at laugh. After this session he announced that Mr.Goyal, our in-charge Field director, came there to participate in the trek along with us up to the next camp Talhouti. Camp fire was also good.
Day 6
Chouhan provided us hot water for our morning chores (never done in any other camp in the trek). Our batch leader Mr.Sharma was having some problem with his stomach. So he remained in Dundha for that day and he will continue his journey tomorrow with HD 30 guys. So his deputy Pratik Dagli took over his charges.
The day was claimed to be the toughest of the trek by YH Officials. Because we have to cross an ice field in the middle of the trail. Chouhan told about this and warned us to make it carefully. Main ice field was a sloping hill. A rope was fixed beside the trail and we were fixed with carabiners (An oblong metal ring with a spring clip, used in mountaineering to attach a running rope). We attached carabiners to the rope. While walking we held the rope with one hand so that it gives us support to walk on ice properly. Carabiner arrests any fall if we slide off the trail. If any sliding takes place there, the fall will be stopped after 200 feet. Going down is very easy but coming up is really a big task. If anyone falls, while coming up there won't be any grip for the shoe in that sloping ice. So trekker has to use his hands also. If trekker was not wearing proper gloves, fingers become numb after some time. In these circumstances ice axe comes in handy. A guy from Sambalpur, Orissa was there with an ice axe, to fix the rope and carabiners and also to bring up the fallen trekkers. We asked him 'has any one gone down'. He replied 'only one this year'. After this ice field we came across some ice patches. Some of the trekkers enjoyed sliding on them.
We reached Camp Talhouti. This camp was also in good place. It was having a variety of beautiful wild Himalayan flowers. The camp was surrounded by hills on two sides with patches of ice on them.
Usually in YHAI treks, they don't allow male trekkers into female trekker's tents, even brothers and husbands, but only fathers. Prajacta Joshi from Kalyan, Maharashtra was the lone lady in our batch. Along with her brother Mandar Joshi she participated in the trek. Sleeping lonely in a tent will be a little bit problem. So officials at the base camp wrote a letter addressing camp leaders to allow her brother to remain in her tent. In this trek base camp officials were using wireless service for inter communication with the other camps. Every day before we reach the camp, base camp officials were instructing camp leaders to make necessary arrangements for the single lady. Here also camp leader Mr.Shashidhar from Bangalore made special arrangement for the lady. Nearby the camp there was a Gujjar's hut. Shashidhar urged him to send his daughters to be with the lady for that night. After much debate he agreed. Those ladies also participated in the camp fire and sung songs melodiously.
Day 7
This morning Mr.Goyal, completing his one day trek, going back to base camp. Along with him Dr.Rishabh Dagli from Gujarat was also going. He was unable to continue the trek anymore because he was having blisters on his foot fingers due to shoe bite. He purchased shoe in Mussoorie and wore them for the trek. Due to that reason he has to withdraw from the trek. All have bid farewell to him.
I sat on a rock for some time here before our start. Morning was calm and peaceful. The surroundings were more beautiful than yesterday.
We started our journey to Lekha Thatch. Initially trek was down hill. Afterwards it was a steep downhill and trail went through dense forest unlike last day. Today, tea point and lunch point were at the same place beside a big stream. Our guide for the day was in dual role and acted as tea point owner also. Here we spent big time taking snaps and eating maggi. As soon as we finished our lunch it began pouring. Within minutes the stream swelled. In the rain we began our journey by crossing the stream on a log bridge. We were now walking up hill and the trail was on the side of a hill. Nature here was endowed with lush green forest. Rain was stopped when we reached the top of the hill. Some of us took snaps as the rain stopped. From here we saw Lekha Thatch camp site.
In the camp everyone was busy drying their clothes and all. Soon after snacks another time it started pouring. Camp Leader was not in the camp when we reached the camp. He went to Seema, our next destination, for something. We came out of our tents this evening only for our dinner. Camp Leader arrived just before that. It was still drizzling. So that day was no camp fire day.
Day 8
It was still drizzling in the morning as we were preparing to start to camp Seema. Soon after a downhill we were in Datmir village. First time we were facing people after the start of the trek. In the village center there was a school and a temple. The deity here was Duryodhana, the Mahabharata fame. 2 to 3 members went up to the school and inspected how teachers were teaching. Some people took snaps along with the children playing around the temple. River Supin was flowing beside this village. But it was too steep to reach the river. It was flowing a few hundreds of meters below. All the men in the village have gone to the fields. Only ladies, children and old people were remaining in the village. We took some time for photos at a stream flowing after the village. Soon we reached a shepherd's hut. He was selling goat milk and curd. Some purchased milk to drink. I purchased a glass of curd for Rs.10 and consumed it in no time. It was so sweet. Purchased another glass for lunch. We took our lunch today beside the path we were moving, unlike beside a stream every day.
During our post lunch walk we came along a flour mill which was working with the force of stream water. Soon we were in Osla village vicinity. Here two children were selling a type of fruit which tasted good. It started raining when we were about to enter Camp Seema. We hurriedly rushed into tents.
Camp Seema looked very nice. Though a tiny one it has so many attractions. At the end of tent line it was having boulders of 10 feet height. At least 10 can sit on them. Beside the camp River Supin was flowing furiously between the boulders. Trekker's tents were on one side and all the other tents were on another side making a place to play Gilly Danda.
The River along Seema-Taluka -Sankri route is Supin. This River goes and meets Rupin on the way after Sankri and finally meets up with Tons (Single largest tributary of Yamuna) near Mori. River Supin forms out of the confluence of Har-Ki-Doon Gad ( which comes from HKD Valley and Jaundhar Glacier) and Ruinsara Gad which comes from Supin Glacier in Kyarkoti region.
Here at Camp Seema we met HD27 people. They were returning from HKD, which we will be moving to tomorrow. We had good time here during camp fire.
Somebody asked Mandar to participate in camp fire earlier. He asked Doodh Milega? In the camp fire again somebody asked Mandar to contribute some thing. Instantly HD27 people yelled Doooodh.
Day 9
HD27 people bid farewell to our group in the morning while we were moving to our last high camp Har Ki Doon. Tomorrow we will be coming back to Seema. It was because there is no direct route between HKD and Sankri, our base camp. We crossed a bridge over River Supin and entered Osla village boundary. The temple here in Osla is famous for its wood carvings. Before the bridge there was Seema GMVN rest house. We walked on stone laid steps after crossing the bridge and at some height we turned right toward HKD. After covering some distance we saw a waterfall on the other side and GMVN Seema at a distance. Atmosphere was pleasant and views from here were scenic. With so many ups and downs we reached a tea point. There was a paddy field after that tea point. We met HD28 people there. They were coming back to Seema. We departed in opposite directions after a little chit chat.
We continued looking snow clad mountains to reach a tiny but beautiful waterfall. That was our lunch point. Legend has it that was the place where Maa Parvati took bath before meeting Lord Shiva at Har Ki Doon. Just after completing our lunch, there was a down pour. Soon it became to a hail storm. All hurriedly wore their rain coats and started moving toward the destination. Soon all the places looked white in colour. Sometime later there was only rain. After moving one hour we saw a person coming in the opposite direction. We asked him how much distance still to go to reach HKD. He replied 2 km. We were happy to hear that and continued to see a sign wrote on a boulder "Welcome to Har Ki Doon" after 2 km. But the destination was not in sight. We proceed another 2 km to see a Y.H.A.I welcome sign. Another time happy. It also vanished after not finding any thing after 5 minutes of walk. We walked towards an upward direction and saw GMVN bungalow. Energised and moved fast to clear an upward slope. Then the famous Har Ki Doon camp site came into our sight. That was a marvelous tiny piece of land. In orientation it self in the base camp, the Field Director told us that HKD camp site as the best one. It was true.
The camp site was a vast green area. Fenced by Swargarohini on one side, which can be seen right from the base camp, an unknown peak on the other side. In between these two Har-Ki-Doon Gad was flowing, born from Jaunadhar Glacier once 6 km away from here and now receded further to a 12 km distance. Multi coloured tents were pitched in the middle.
A memorable view. Soon we descended to reach kitchen area. Camp leader Amit Lakhani from Rajkot, Gujarat invited us to have pakora. We were ready to eat, another time Rain God showered his mercy. I ran into a tent, Mr. V.Suryanarayana from Bangalore followed and then Mr.Ojas Chavan from Mumbai. Rain was pouring all the evening, so we didn't attempt to come out of our tent. Rather we stuffed ourselves in sleeping bags in that chilly atmosphere. Camp leader after a while in the dark came and asked to come for dinner. We at that time were sleepy, not ready to come out in that rain, simply turned down his invitation. " What should I do with the food we made ready for you", he asked. After some negotiation we sent Ojas to bring some food to the tent itself.
As usual in the morning surroundings turned heavenly. After the first glance I went into the tent. Mr. Suryanarayana was requesting Ojas to bring his back pack from the kitchen, which he didn't bring into the tent last night. Mr.Surya came running into the tent last night without his backpack. His rain soaked clothes were there beside him. ''Without your back pack, how did you change your clothes?'' Ojas asked. ''I am naked", he replied.
Camp leader was distributing gulab jamun before our breakfast. "Do you want another", he asked me. "Yes". "Come here another time" was his reply.
We started walking toward Seema in the same route. Yesterday's lunch point was today's tea point. There we met Mr.P.S.Chauhan, our Dundha camp leader. Along with 4 others he was going to HKD. Before next tea point we met HD 30 people. We met Sharmaji, our former group leader and "The electrifying" Vaibhav. We reached Seema at 2pm.
In the morning in HKD, we saw Seema camp leader going toward Jaunadhar Glacier. So we will be going to be in a leader less camp this evening.
Day 10
Today everyone was in high mood. Everyone was proceeding at a gallop toward Taluka along River Supin. We finished our lunch at Taluka and boarded Jeeps to reach our Base camp Sankri at around 2p.m. Everyone in the Base Camp was astonished and said You guys reached quickly. We collected our baggage. Everyone was in high spirits for completing the trek successfully. After dinner we gathered in a tent for our last night meeting. We received certificates for successfully completing the trek. We missed Dr.Rishabh Dagli and Sharmaji. We asked Mr.Goyal "which is the best group in this trek?" "Yours is the best one". All vociferated he he he. Our Kedarkantha camp leader was also present there. He also supported it.
Day 11
Finishing breakfast with yummy noodles and a brief group photo session boarded our Bus back to Mussoorie. One of the officiating ladies entered into the bus and asked us, what's day today? Thurs Daaay, someone yelled. What's the date? 9th Juune. O.K. You are not out of the world she said and departed. Everybody in the Base Camp were waving hands as we were departing. In the mid way we stopped at a Hotel to take our lunch. In the evening we reached Reporting Camp. As per itinerary our batch remains there for the night and depart after breakfast tomorrow. One who wants to reside there afterwards they can book accommodation at their own capacity. I decided to visit Haridwar and Rishikesh. So I liked to move in the same evening to Dehradun. Mr.Satya from Bangalore also was accompanying me. This bus was going up to Dehradun. So anybody going there are welcome, the driver announced. We along with Sandeep Sorathia from Gujarat remained in the bus. He will be going Delhi and proceeding to Ahmedabad from there. Rest of the group bid us send off.
We reached Haridwar in the evening. Booked our accommodation in Karnataka Dharmasala and dumped our luggage in the room. First we went Har Ki Pauri for a holy dip. It was dark already. Mr.Satya opted for a dip in the morning. So I went into the River. I was going for a dip in the most sacred of the rivers, holy Ganga for the first time. First dip was an eternal bliss. Only twice before I had it. On both the occasions it was during parikrama in temples. First one was during Lepakshi Temple visit. Other one was during my visit to Lord Kalyana Venkateswara in Srinivasa Mangapuram. Had dinner and lights off.
Day 12
Went to Har Ki Pauri in the morning. After holy dip went to perform Tarpan to the departed souls of my dynasty.Today we visited Maa Manasa Devi Temple and Maa Chandi Devi Temple, both on cable cars. In the evening we attended Ganga aarti, which every pilgrim shouldn't miss. There are so many temples on the bank of Har Ki Pauri. Pilgrims in large number gather on both the banks in the evening. At sunset priests perform Ganga aarti. Priests hold large fire bowls in hands moving them up and down,chanting, gongs in the temples start ringing, giving a most enchanting sight.
Day 13
In the morning Visited Rishikesh. Had darshan of Lord Venkateswara at Andhra Ahshram temple. Visited places like Ram Jhula, Lakshman jhula

5 comments:

masijeevi said...

Nice Post Thanks!!
Considering this trek this summer.

PRATIK DAGLI said...

Hello sir,

How can I forget you for awesome trek at HAR-KI-DUN.. I always keep remember you. I really like your writing and your expression of our trek journey.

Regards

Pratik Dagli

Ojas.Chavan said...

Hi, I just read your blog and recollected all those wonderful HKD days.Was lost into nostalgia for sometime.

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Swathi said...

Thank you for sharing your trek experience.It was very intersting to know about your trek experience.The way you explain about your travel is really awesome.Thank you for sharing such a great information.Book tickets in leading travel operator Madurai Radha Travels and enjoy your trip.


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